Novice needs first build advice please

justintime · January 03, 2013, 09:12:49 PM

Thank you gents for taking the time & trouble to explain and add the links. I think I understand the video and explanation but if I get confused I know where to ask

There is so much to learn I can see this is going to be a very long, but I'm sure very enjoyable road. I am certainly hooked thats for sure.

justintime · January 03, 2013, 09:56:55 PM

Yet another question, sorry. What type of soldering iron would I be wise to get? I have seen a pencil type at DCC supplies http://www.dccsupplies.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=2427 (Xytronic soldering pencil 25W) but I am not sure if this is the sort of thing I should be getting for my soldering work (track, points etc).

Pengi · January 03, 2013, 10:02:39 PM

There are recommendations here

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=3667.msg41550#msg41550

I have the one that Mr Grumpy and Scotsoft use and find it to be great (and good value for money). I have been using it to solder 0603 SMDs

justintime · January 03, 2013, 10:20:06 PM

Thanks Pengy, thats good enough for me.

justintime · January 06, 2013, 10:24:52 PM

I have now built my first baseboard. It's for a simple 2 x 4 oval for using as a test and running-in track. Before I attempt to go further, can anyone suggest what glue I should stick the track bed down with? I will be fitting woodland scenic track bed as it will be a good practice run for me before going for the full build. However I will be using gaugemaster ballasted underlay for the main layout.

OwL · January 06, 2013, 10:44:49 PM

Quote from: justintime on January 06, 2013, 10:24:52 PM
I have now built my first baseboard. It's for a simple 2 x 4 oval for using as a test and running-in track. Before I attempt to go further, can anyone suggest what glue I should stick the track bed down with? I will be fitting woodland scenic track bed as it will be a good practice run for me before going for the full build. However I will be using gaugemaster ballasted underlay for the main layout.

I personally wouldnt glue down the track. Use double sided sticky tape and where track joins another piece use tack nails to pin the track to the baseboard.
For example, on a long piece of flexi-track i would tack nail at both ends and in the middle, then with double sided used a quarter of the way down the length and three quarters of the way down down the length.
The reason i do it this way is because then i can up-lift the track easily if ever i was to dismantle the layout or make track alterations easier.
If you glue it down it is more difficult to retrieve track and messy to install.

This is my method, some may agree or disagree.

Hope this helps, all the best OwL

Jack · January 06, 2013, 10:45:35 PM

The best advise I was given on this forum was Copydex. It's easy to take up track if its not quite right, clean off the glue both from track and board and redo. In the words of a furry friend - Simples!

I my opinion and that of others is that track pins need to be bined! They are hard to get up without damaging the track. If you need to use something to hold the track while any glue drys, use a screw that will fit between the sleepers.

mr magnolia · January 06, 2013, 11:02:12 PM

I've used copydex also and would agree that it allows you to lift and relay later if you need.
I've been meaning to ask if others have also had the same bonus side effect that I've noticed - the vapour from the glue seems to ternish the track usefully but without seeming to effect the electrical/pickup properties. I have glued the track only in places, but I have wondered if this might be an alternative to painting the track...

justintime · January 06, 2013, 11:03:17 PM

Thank you folks. Am I right in thinking you glue the track to the underlay with copydex too then Jack?

Jack · January 06, 2013, 11:18:46 PM

I spot glue the track. I personally don't use underlay on my test track and I don't use underlay on most of the main layout either now. Having said that, on past layouts I've spot glued the underlay, let it dry then spot glued the track on the underlay. You only need to spot glue because when you come to ballast you will glue the track down completely.

One thing I've learned in the resent past is if you need to hold the track in place on the underlay, with the exception of cork, don't hold it too tight, some underlay can loss its shape.

Bear in mind that where you have platforms and the like you'll need to have the same depth as your underlay under your platforms or the rolling stock will be well above the platform level and your passengers will need step ladders to climb aboard.

daveg · January 07, 2013, 07:43:27 AM

I've used WS track underlay held down with a smear of Copydex and the track on that using the same glue. Easy to remove and clean up if you want or have to change. No tacks anywhere! But in the end, it's what works best for you.

Oh, I weigh the track down with a big heavy lump of leather clad lead while the glue sets. A four-pack of baked beans does a similar job! I also use a diluted Copydex mix when ballasting.

Good tip regarding track height and platforms if using an underlay. I use a thin layer of polystyrene insulation to build up station and track related buildings to the 'right' height.

Good luck and enjoy your build. Please let us have updates with pics if that's possible.

Dave G