Fox frustrations.

[cmason]

I have 5 various vans from WHM, all LNER versions and needed N and E transfers.
Fox supplied these in a small sheet with various other letterings which were of no use to me.
The letters are in white (but appear pale yellow) on a backing of very pale blue.
I found them to be hardly visible, had virtually no margins around the letters and failed to find a way of applying them to the model.
The instructions advised that the card would curl up and then straighten again in hot water with a drop of washing-up liquid added to indicate when the transfer could be made.
This did not happen and I am at a loss to know when I can safely transfer letters to my models.
Any advice please on a suitable method?

Maurice C.

Indeed Fox can be a bit of a pain. I tend to the old Modelmaster NGS transfers for my N and E or elements from various bits nicked from more recent NGS sheets from Railtec rather than Fox - however I have been using Fox a little of late - they have a smaller N E for the 18" NER letters ( as oppose to 12" and 24" of the LNER ) which is what I want on the WHM 20 ton P6. Recent work on Alumina wagons and some Hytwins is also using a fair bit of Fox.

The method I have finally arrived at for applying them ( and all decals ) is that I cut them out of the sheet first and lay them dry on the wagon, apply a little "Mr Mark Setter" on the target area, use a paintbrush to generously wet the transfer (cold water - I don't bother with warm any more, I find its not needed )  and wait till its ready to float off and float it into place on the setter liquid guiding it with the tip of a very sharp pair of tweezers or a knife blade.. I then soak up the excess liquid with a dry brush or cotton  bud taking care not to move the transfer. Finally I apply "Mr Mark Softer" - especially if the vehicle is particularly rough so that the transfer adjust to the planks. When all is done and thoroughly dry I spray **very** lightly with "Aqueous Premium Top Coat "Flat"".

Another thing I now do is completely process one side of a wagon at a time - once it is dry and varnished I do the other side. Why? - coz if I don't I seem to knock things off :-)

BTW - the Setter and Softer liquids and the varnish I use are GSI Creos Mr Hobby products which are widely available here in Japan but do seem to be exported globally.

Also I generally gloss the wagon before applying the decals. Although in these two WHM examples I did not as I liked the finish as purchased.

Both the P6 and the Alumina mix Fox, old NGS(Modelmaster) and Coventry Railworks(Railtec type).The following 4 pics were all taken before the final varnish coat. 



This shows a problem on the Alumina ( to match a prototype photo I replaced "Empty To" from Empty to Burntisland with a "Return To" form a Return to East London which involved cutting through a transfer) and need to improve my technique ( another forum member suggested I use a razor blade next time ).However the final varnish almost completely fixed that.



This is the P6 close up



However you can see an issue which is highlighted even more on this next shot. Fox, unlike, say Railtec, is not "spot printed" ( is that the correct term?) and so I am left with film surround rising up ("silvering") because I did not gloss in this case and despite using the Softer.



Now applying the varnish coat and you can see the final result clearing up most of the defects.





One problem I have just spotted is some of the white spotting one can get from matt varnish even when lightly applied... However, finally, from "normal viewing distance" I think they look OK. Although there is still a tiny bit of defect under that N and due to the "Return to" cut.



And I just noticed how skewed the Northern Division "N" is. On which subject I have actually just ordered some small letters from Fox to enable me to provide wagons from the Southern and Central Divisions of the NER.

[cmason]

Going back to the above - use of gloss paint for the base layer - it really is worth following that recommendation.

For example this batch that I have been working on the last few days was much easier using gloss.



Based the NGS RCH Kit:

* Carlton, Hinckley, Wemyss, Congleton and HM Office of Works are all old NGS (ex-Modelmaster ) sheets.

* Dorman Long and Weardale are Robbie Burns' ( which are a different technique where the white is achieved with a transparent transfer on a white background ).

Then two LNER wagons with doors removed are the beginnings of a pair of LNER "High Sided Twin Bolsters" which were introduced as an emergency wartime measure (Hytwins under BR) - these are end door wagons with end doors, and generally side doors, removed and bolsters added. In this case an LNER mineral and an RCH for the base a (although there were a number of other combinations produced). Fox produce a set of transfers for these that match the lettering variants on pages 239 and 240 of Taplow LNER Wagons Vol4B.

Finally I am trying something new with a PECO 10ft mineral wagon - picked up an extra fine tip marker and a super fine tip brush pen that are produced under the Mr Hobby Brand for Gundam kit builders. Makes painting the ironwork much easier. Next task is transfers on this.   

BTW - all these are currently on their first side having been just varnished except the red one with iron work. Next step after the red one is the other side.

Colin.

[middlefour]

Some very interesting ideas there. I have a shallow stainless steel dish into which I place a piece of kitchen sponge, cut to size, the sort of thing that comes about 200mm square and about 5mm thick. I fill the dish so the sponge is fully wet but not submerged or floating and just sit the transfer onto that. It can't escape and easy to pick up. For years I have used Solvaset to make the transfers snuggle down but it seems that is no longer available.

[Bigmac]

i no longer put the decal in a water  bath--just place it dry on the flat surface of the model--and brush a little water over the area it will go--then soak the dry decal and wait till its loose.  Ive also started using well diluted Glue'n'glaze in the water..

once the decal is free i nudge it into place--then blot off as much water as poss,
 reposition if it has moved.  and finally leave to dry.  Varnish over next day.  I use Valejo matt.

[mojo]

As well as asking for help on this forum, I emailed Fox about the issues.
I had a prompt reply which made a few suggestions, (nothing as good as the replies I had from here), and an offer of a free replacement which I accepted.

The new set arrived this morning and the difference in appearance is remarkable.
The background colour is a deeper shade of pale blue and gives a much clearer view of the decals such that it will be far easier to see where to cut.

Full marks to Fox customer service.

[cmason]

@mojo

Don't know if you are a member of the NGS, however for reference there is still (or was until very recently when I bought a top-up) some stock of the very useful ex-Modelmaster LNER wagons sheet MMT157

Go to  / NGS Shop / ex-Modelmaster Transfers & Etched Number/Name Plates / Transfers for Big 4 era / Pre '48 Locos & Freight Stock decals /

There is drop down menu of the available transfers on that page.

That sheet is easy to use as the transfers contrast sufficiently with the backing material ( there are pre-1938 LNER sheets on there as well - however I find that sheet more difficult as they are pretty much the same colour as the backing sheet ),

Cheers,

Colin.